Lebanon is easy to enter, cheap to travel in and complicated to live in. Visitors should understand the currency situation before arriving, because it affects everything.
Entry
Most European, North American and Gulf nationals receive a free single-entry visa on arrival at Beirut airport, valid for one month and extendable. Israeli passport holders are refused entry, and so is anyone with an Israeli stamp or an entry record from an Israeli border post; this is enforced. Bring proof of accommodation and an onward ticket.
Money
The Lebanese pound lost more than 95 percent of its value from 2019 and the economy has largely dollarised. Prices are commonly quoted in US dollars, and cash dollars in good condition are the practical currency. Card acceptance is limited and ATMs unreliable, so bring enough cash for the whole trip, in a mix of denominations. Banks are not a resource; exchange offices are. Costs for visitors are low by regional standards: a good meal for 10 to 20 dollars, a mid-range hotel for 50 to 80.
Electricity and water
The state grid supplies a few hours a day at best, and private generator subscriptions cover the rest. Hotels and restaurants have their own, but expect brief gaps at switchover and constant generator noise in residential streets. Tap water is not for drinking.
Getting around
There is no railway and no meaningful national bus system, but shared minibuses and service taxis cover the coastal road and the main mountain routes cheaply. Within Beirut, a service taxi takes a set fare per seat on a shared route; say service and the destination, and if the driver agrees, get in. Apps such as Bolt operate in the capital. Hiring a car is straightforward and driving is assertive; mountain roads are narrow and lit erratically. For Baalbek, the Bekaa and the south, a driver or a tour is the sensible choice.
Safety
Beirut and the main tourist areas are generally calm, and crime against visitors is rare. The situation with Israel in the south, unrest in parts of the Bekaa and periodic political tension mean the picture changes quickly; read the current advice from your own foreign ministry rather than a guidebook, and register your presence if that is offered. Army and Hezbollah checkpoints exist and are routine; keep your passport with you and do not photograph them.
Etiquette
Lebanon is socially liberal by regional standards, particularly in Beirut, and more conservative in Tripoli, the south and rural areas. Dress modestly at religious sites and cover hair in mosques. French and English are widely spoken alongside Arabic, and a greeting of bonjour is as normal as marhaba.